Warkworth Castle

Driving south from Alnwick, you approach Warkworth Castle from its most spectacular side, as each bend in the road opens yet another stunning view.

Mentioned in Shakespeare's Henry IV, Warkworth was built in the 12th century to guard the crossing over the river Coquet.

It's partially ruined, but there's enough of it left to show what an imposing edifice it once was. Now imagine it heaving with people and horses, and the picture becomes even more impressive.

And while you're there, don't forget to take a stroll through the village of Warkworth. The lovely little Norman church was the site of a terrible massacre in 1174, when the Scots earl Duncan had all the villagers who had taken refuge in the church put to the sword.

Interlude: Howick Hall and Craster

A little way up the coast you will pass Howick Hall, which was built in 1782 for the Grey family, who have lived in Howick since 1319.

If you love Earl Grey tea: here lived the man who invented it! The house is not open for visitors at the moment, but the gardens are stunning. And you can always stay for tea.

Turning north from Howick soon brings you into the little fishing port of Craster. It's famous all over England for the oak-smoked kippers that have been produced here for well over 100 years.

Craster Kippers are often served for breakfast. But they also make an excellent addition to a lunch on the beach - or if the weather does not play ball, have them served with brown bread and a pint in the local pub.